Trieste, Italy

March 1st

After a weekend in Bologna with my parents, a flat tire, a rental car swap out and a week in bed with the flu, I was ready to hit the road yet again.  I decided to head out on a loop through Eastern Europe that would take me through northern Italy, Solvenia, Croatia, Hungary, Slovakia, Austria, Czech Republic, and Germany.

My first stop was Trieste, Italy.  Located on the Adriatic Sea in the northeast corner of the country, it lies on the border of Slovenia.  It's a gorgeous seaside port town that was part of the Roman Empire, the Hapsburg Empire, occupied by French troops during the Napoleonic Wars and part of the Austro- Hungarian empire until World War I.  In fact, it was the chief seaport of Austria-Hungary.  It's a city with a fascinating past and gorgeous views.

I started out by visiting and old roman theater in the historic city center.  It looked like a tiny replica of the Colosseum in Rome!

Next, I toured the Capitolo Cattedrale di San Giusto Martire, a gorgeous church set at the top of a tall staircase.

And then I wound my way down to the most famous piazza in trieste, the Piazza dell'Unita d'Italia.  This unique piazza has huge government buildings on 3 sides and is open to the Adriatic Sea on the 4th side. The buildings are so massive, they look like wedding cakes!

And on the 4th side of the square, the Adriatic Sea....

When I was in this piazza, it was insanely windy. I could barely keep from being blown into the Adriatic. I wonder if it's always this way, or if this was a fluke.

One thing I love is that most piazzas in Italy have statues or fountains in the middle. I thought this one was particularly gorgeous.  

After leaving the piazza, I walked over to the canal area and had lunch.  I also came across this statue of James Joyce, the Irish novelist and poet.  I learned that Joyce made Trieste his home from 1904 to 1920 after leaving his home in Ireland.  It was here in Trieste that his children were born and from this city,  he worked to get The Dubliners published.  Trieste so loved James Joyce, they placed the statue of him on the Grand Canal.

I had to get a photo with him!

And just like that, it was time to leave Trieste. I would certainly come back here again. I think the sleepy town on the edge of the water would be amazing in the summer!  It's just the right mix of coastline, water, ancient ruins, and a wonderful smattering of cultures.

Next up... I'm headed east... towards Zagreb, Croatia!
Ciao!

Solo Pet Peeves

Human beings are terrified of being alone.

I find it very interesting.  People are constantly trying to escape being alone.  We surround ourselves with people- family, friends, husband, wives, children, crowds, bigger crowds, strangers.  Anything to keep from being (gasp!) alone. I mean, I get it. If given the choice, you'd rather go to dinner with your husband/wife/kids/ boyfriend/ girlfriend/BFF than to be alone.  I feel the same way sometimes.  But, what if you want to see an art exhibit and no one is available to go with you? Will you skip it? Would you go hungry instead of having a sandwich solo? If so....why?

I'm single and don't have children, so spend a decent amount of time alone. Generally speaking, I'm perfectly okay with that. It seems to freak the shit out of everyone else, though. I'm an extrovert, to be sure. I love being around others, talking, sharing, socializing. But, I also like to be alone to recharge my batteries. I'll go to the movies or a museum alone. And of course, those of you who read my blog regularly know that I'm currently traveling throughout Europe for 3.5 months alone.

A part of me relishes doing things alone. When I'm alone, I can circle the parking lot 5 times waiting for the perfect parking spot to open up without judgement or park at the furthest spot to get some extra steps in my pedometer. I don't have to compromise and go to the restaurant I don't really like, but my friend/mom/boyfriend/cousin/coworker likes.  I linger or dash when I want. I can see the movie I want to see and sit in the exact seat I want, no hushed negotiations in the darkened theater aisle about seating. Ahhh, it's the blissful freedom of no compromises!

I'm also comfortable eating in a restaurant alone, which I know makes some people super uncomfortable. I have a busy brain always thinking of a dozen things, so it's almost impossible to get bored.  But I can also shut it off and relax, read, or people watch happily.

But despite my comfort at being alone, I on this trip, I've realized I have a few pet peeves and I've got to vent!

Pet Peeve #1 - "Only one?"
If I walk into a restaurant alone and say confidently with a smile "I'd like a table for dinner, please" the correct response is "Yes, ma'am, right this way." (or some derivation thereof).

The INCORRECT responses include:
"Just you?"
"A table for one?"
"Dining alone tonight, ma'am?"
"Will someone else be joining you?"

But above all of them, my LEAST favorite response is: "Only one?"

Only.
One.

Only one? Nothing like adding the word "only" to instantly assign value and importance to the quantity of people sitting at a table. Embedded in that sentence is judgement and value: more is better.  Two is appropriate. Two is expected. Three or four is great and more than that is a party!  But one? Can it be true? Can one person want to sit at a table and eat food?  Make no mistake.  "Only one?" is a value statement. Only signifies lacking, too few, not enough. Only one, frankly, is an asshole thing to say.

Pet Peeve #2 - Sad glances

There are few things more annoying than Little Miss Sad Glances.  I am enjoying a nice meal and a glass of wine and looking around when I spot her.  There's always (at least) one woman nearby nervously checking me out every 30 seconds.  My very existence makes her so uncomfortable it actually disturbs her meal.   Sometimes she even points me out to her companion, who will also look over. Interestingly, if it's a man, he usually smiles and has a look in his face that says "cool." But, if it's a woman, she also gives me sad glances.   I'm not going to burst into flames, lady. I'm just gonna eat this sandwich and then resume my fabulous life....mmmkay? Thanks.

Pet Peeve #3 "You're my hero/so brave / I could never!"

Ahhhh, this one is the worst!  I'm sitting in an awesome restaurant in Budapest, enjoying a glass of wine and a nice meal and two 20-something girls stop by and say "we just think you're SO brave to sit here and eat alone!"  Her friend nods emphatically and says with a big smile,  "SO, SO brave!"  Derivations of this include the overly sympathetic smile and the random stop at my table to pay me a compliment.  It's usually something like "I think it's awesome you'll go out to eat alone!" or "You're so brave!" with a big, reassuring smile. Sometimes they go a little further and remind me of why they don't do the same thing.  "I could never!" or "I just don't think I could do that, I'd be too self-conscious!" or something along those lines.

The intent is to praise me, to make me feel better and to show me that they're so impressed. (SO, SO brave!) You're impressed I'm eating spaghetti?  Well then you should see what I can do to a steak and baked potato! I'm eating food, like I've done successfully for about 31 years now.  I don't need praise...now please get away from my table.

*******

I've got some dark news for you, folks. We all come in this world alone and we all leave it the same way. If you can't eat a sandwich alone without getting twitchy, you might want to reexamine some things.

I challenge you all to do 2 things: 
1. Don't ever do anything I outlined above.  It's rude.  It's insensitive. You are projecting your uncomfortable shit onto the solo diner / movie watcher / museum goer.  They're alone. They are comfortable. They rock. Move on with your day.

2.  Try doing something alone! Actually, try 3 things. Because it takes some getting used to. But you'll find your solo groove, I promise!

• First, try a solo movie. That's super easy. It's dark, you have popcorn to munch on and you're not supposed to talk during the movie anyway.  Go, enjoy the movie, then resume your life emboldened by your solo outing!

• Next, try going to a museum or art gallery by yourself. Linger when you want, race through a room full of art you hate, do whatever you want! Reassure yourself (as needed) by reminding yourself that no one knows if your husband/friend is just in the next room or at the last painting.

• And then one day, take a deep breath and go out to eat alone. Order a cocktail and your favorite meal. 
• Try not to have your phone or iPad in your hand, getting on Facebook...because that's really avoiding being alone. Just sit back, enjoy your drink, enjoy your meal, look around and smile!
• If that's too much... go ahead and take a book, crossword puzzle or your Kindle and get lost in a good story. Before you know it, you might just look forward to solo meals where you can recharge in peace.

Life is too short to miss out on things because you’re scared of being alone. Take a deep breath, put a smile on your face and get out there!

And remember... I think you are SO, SO BRAVE!

Milan, Italy

I didn't even WANT to go to Milan.

I had read Milan was a modern city with fairly little to offer in terms of tourist attractions, save The Last Supper and a Duomo. Oh, and The Scala.  It was like I heard 10 things about Milan, but heard them all separately...10 separate things I was lukewarm about seeing.  It's a center of banking, a commercial hub, home to fashion designers, blah blah blah. It all sounded terrifically boring, to be honest. I've seen plenty of Duomos, thankyouverymuch, I can skip this one.  But I agreed to go anyway, considering our apartment in Vicenza is less than 2 hours away by train. And because my mom, the product of a fairly religious childhood, was looking forward to seeing The Last Supper.

At the Milan train station

My mom is really The Undisputed Queen of Travel. I take it for granted sometimes, but give that woman 2 hours and a laptop and she could do just about anything. So, of course it was her who researched the entire city, made a plan bought the train tickets, and arranged the best part of the weekend -a tour of Milan.

 The tour was in a plush motor coach, with an English speaking guide and included an overview of Milan, it's history, a visit to see The Last Supper, a guided tour of Sforzesco castle, the Teatro alla Scala, the Galleria of shops and the Duomo.

I shouldn't have doubted my mother because you guys, Milan is awesome. It's a large city and it's got an energy that is both soothing and energizing.  It's full of chaotic car traffic that moves along effortlessly in the same lanes as the public trains. (I don't know how accidents don't happen constantly).

But that shared space makes it seem both modern and ancient at the same time.  As I admired the heavy, metal streetcars, an impossible attractive taxi driver told us that Milan sold street cars to San Francisco some years ago.

The architecture is stunning. The history is fascinating. The food is excellent. I loved it. Halfway through the weekend, I turned to my mom and said "I would live here" and she grinned and said "Me too!"



My biggest regret in visiting Milan was not attending an opera at La Scala, the world renowned opera house. Our tour took us through the museum, the gilded lobby and then we stood in one of the plush, red velvet covered opera boxes.  I could just imagine how magical it would be to listen to my first opera here.  Sadly, the (very few) remaining tickets were at least €255 and we thought it was a bit too expensive for lousy seats.  In hindsight, I bet the sounds, the sights, the experience would have been worth every euro cent.

Now, if you ever spend copious amounts of time in Europe you may start to think that after you've seen 20 or so duomos, you've seen enough duomos.  I had that very thought. But, don't be a fool!  Nothing I could write here could prepare you for the Milan Duomo.  The only thing that was even remotely close to it is La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. If you've seen that and marveled at the opulence, the grandiosity of the design, the excess, how around each corner is another opportunity for your jaw to drop to the floor, then maybe, you might be somewhat-sorta-almost prepared for the Duomo in Milan.  But still, you are not prepared.

This cathedral took 6 centuries to build...that's right... it took more than 600 years!  I am a bit of an architecture buff and always find myself wandering around structures and cities, taking in the feel of the buildings. The duomo was like someone shaking you as hard as possible and then hugging you. It's so grand, so impressive that it's startling. But it's also incredible beautiful, spiritual, heavenly and calming at the same time.

We paid a bit extra to take an elevator to the top and walk around outside, admiring the spires up close.  I'm no huge fan of heights (neither is my mom) but it was worth every moment in that ear-popping elevator. The views of Milan are astounding, the close up view of the architecture was a dream.  And I took a photo of my parents that I immediately fell in love with.

And of course, Milan is also full of exceptional shopping opportunities. There is a glorious galleria just between the duomo and the Scala.  I wandered in and out of boutiques there and in the shopping district, dazzled by Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Fendi, Versace and more. It's certainly a city where you could put the hurt on your credit card!

So, dear readers, I encourage you to add Milan to your travel list if it's not there already.

For those of you who are using this blog as help for your future travel plans (or just love hotel photos, like me!) we stayed at the Hotel de la Ville, which was modern, updated and gorgeous.

The location was perfect as a home base for exploring the city and the decor was gorgeous and modern.

  I fell in love with this navy upholstered King Louis chair. I need to ask my friend Stephanie (from Glitter and Goat Cheese ) for advice on how to recreate this entire area - awesome lacquered white table, gorgeous navy King Louis chair and a tall, graphic lucite lamp.

I'm not normally a big fan of wallpaper, but I fell in love with this bold graphic print in soft metallic. I might just have to play with wallpaper in my next house.

And finally, the hotel had a great bathroom as well, which is super important to me.  I'll fall in love with any bathroom that has marble everything, floor to ceiling!

Thanks, Milan, for being my first wonderful surprise on this trip.

Caio!

Siena and Il Palio

Jan 29-31

I'm in Siena, Italy!! Siena is a gorgeous town in Tuscany (43 miles south of Florence) and is built into 3 steep hills with the Duomo, or Cathedral, built at the very top overlooking the city.

It's a medieval walled city and cars are forbidden, though taxis, residents cars and delivery vehicles are allowed, so you see plenty of cars whipping around the impossibly narrow, steep streets.  I've traveled my fair share in Europe and I believe Siena's streets are the most steep and narrow that I've ever seen.

I spent a few days exploring this great city: the impressive gothic Cathedral, the Baptistry, the Crypt, the Museo dell'Opera and a tradition unlike any other...Il Palio.

On my first rainy day in Siena,  I ducked into a little "bar" (Italian for cafe or sandwich shop) and met Marco, the owner of the shop.  We chatted for a bit as I ate my panini and he told me he spent some time in the U.S. visiting his brother. I asked where and I almost choked. His brother lives in Marietta, Georgia! What a small world!

Marco is a character and he teaches me the word for rain (pioggia) and as he makes me a cappuccino, he asks me the word for the milk on the top.  "Foam" I tell him and he lights up like a Christmas tree.  "Foam!" he repeats excitedly.  One of his employees comes in and speaks in rapid Italian, gesturing at the cappuccino machine, pointing to the top of my cup and ends with a triumphant "FOAM!"  She looks unimpressed.

Marco also shares with me a bit of the history of his city.  Siena was originally a Roman colony called Saena Julia, founded by Augustus 2,000 years ago! Saena Julia was booming until 1348 when The Black Death (plague) hit the town and 75% of it's residents were killed.  Can you imagine 75% of all the people you know suddenly dying of the same illness? So then a long period of war, fighting, and occupation by the Spanish (and maybe another country as well...I can't remember) followed until Siena was sold to Cosimo in 1557 as part of Tuscany. In 1861, Tuscany was absorbed into the new kingdom of Italy.

In the next few days, the history that Marco shares with me helps me understand and appreciate this city even more. I understand how passionate the people of Siena are about their culture.  They have a dark and troubled past, but they are very proud of their city, their heritage and their traditions. It's really a very cool place to visit.

IL PALIO

Marco's bar is next to a tiny path that leads down to the Piazza del Campo.  When I leave his shop, I make my way down there and am blown away.

There is a huge piazza and since I'm in Siena in the winter, there are just a few people there.

Now, this vast empty space really blows your mind when you learn about Il Palio, Siena's famous horse race.

Back in the 14th century, Siena formed 17 contrade, or neighborhoods wards. Each contrade has an animal name (Eagle, Dragon, Panther, etc.), it's own flag, a crest and a spirit all its own.  Residents are fiercely loyal to their district for many reasons...but mostly because each year, they compete against each other in Il Palio.

Il Palio is a horse race held twice per year in the Piazza del Campo where I am standing. But during the Palio, 70,000 people are packed into this square!!

Once all 70,000 people are stuffed in, the police seal off all the entrances/exits to the piazza and the horses are paraded in. There is a contrade parade, a ton of fanfare, the crowd goes wild and then the race is held.

Each year, 10 of the 17 contrade compete in the race. 90 seconds, 3 laps around the piazza, first horse across the finish line (with or without a rider) WINS!

The piazza is steeply banked in several places, providing opportunities for crashes into walls, horse collisions and of course, riders falling off their horses. And since the riders are bareback, it's a feat to stay on your horse until the end of the race. Not only does the contrade who wins have bragging rights for the entire year, the rider is treated like a celebrity and mobbed as he crosses the finish line.

It's a fascinating tradition!

I spent my days in Siena exploring the city. It's beautiful and full of gorgeous architecture and tiny steep paths here and there.

Siena has a stunning Duomo built in 1215. I spent several hours exploring the cathedral, the baptistry, and the crypt below.

I was absolutely transfixed by the floor in the cathedral. The entire cathedral has an inlaid marble floor, made by over 40 artisans in a process that took over 200 years.

The result is stunning. For the first time ever, I found myself looking down in a cathedral more than I looked up.

The crypt is equally amazing...a large room that caved in and was rediscovered in the 1990's. Now it's been carefully excavated, the walls reinforced and the frescoes uncovered for all to see.

I stayed in the Hotel Duomo, in a former 15th century monastery. It's set high into the hill and I had a spectacular view of the Duomo from my room. Each morning, I woke to the sound of church bells and had to pinch myself to be sure I wasn't dreaming.

Put Siena on your list of places to see!

Bologna: foodie paradise

Jan 27-29

Buongiorno from Bologna, Italy!  I'm in Italy during the off-season, so it's cold, rainy and snowing during my 3 days in Bologna. For the first few days, I decide focus on one of Bologna's most famous exports...FOOD!

There are very few regions in the world more famous for food than the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy...home to the cities of Bologna, Parma and Modena.

Parma is famous for parmigiano cheese and prosciutto crudo di Parma (Parma ham).

Modena is the birthplace of balsamic vinegar and calamari ripieni di calmareti (little squid seasoned, chopped, mixed with rice and stuffed into big squid!)

But, dear readers, I am in the delicious, gorgeous city of Bologna....!  And Bologna is the undisputed king of food.

I spent an afternoon wandering around the area called the Quadrilatero, an area known for it's tiny, medieval streets lined with food shops.

At the produce stands, I'm dazzled by the selection.

 I'm amazed at the massive lemons and huge, grapefruit sized oranges.

There are charming little shops for milk and cheese (latterias) and shops for meat, particularly interesting with ceilings full of hanging, curing meats.

Each shop also has a display of available dried or fresh pasta.

Bologna is famous for creating the delicious stuffed shells known as tortellini, so they're on display everywhere, both in the shops and on signs in front of restaurants.

Bologna also created the larger stuffed cousin to tortellini,  tortelloni.

The Bolognese people also created bolognese, or meat sauce, which the Bolognese people call ragù. Before the people of Bologna created ragù, pasta sauce was just tomato sauce! Thank you, Bologna!

Lasagna was also created here. Delicious, layered cheesy goodness called lasagna! This yummy dish is one of my all-time favorites...!

And finally...the city of Bologna is famous for... bologna! Here, they call it mortadella sausage and it is MUCH yummier than the American version of bologna. It's a mild, slightly sweet meat served primarily at breakfast alongside salami and croissants. (Italians don't eat eggs at breakfast.)  Mortadella sausage is delicious!

So there you have it! These are just a few reasons why Bologna is called the gastronomic paradise of Italy. If you're in Italy, I strongly recommend a visit. Just be sure to wear loose pants!

Caio!