Siena and Il Palio

Jan 29-31

I'm in Siena, Italy!! Siena is a gorgeous town in Tuscany (43 miles south of Florence) and is built into 3 steep hills with the Duomo, or Cathedral, built at the very top overlooking the city.

It's a medieval walled city and cars are forbidden, though taxis, residents cars and delivery vehicles are allowed, so you see plenty of cars whipping around the impossibly narrow, steep streets.  I've traveled my fair share in Europe and I believe Siena's streets are the most steep and narrow that I've ever seen.

I spent a few days exploring this great city: the impressive gothic Cathedral, the Baptistry, the Crypt, the Museo dell'Opera and a tradition unlike any other...Il Palio.

On my first rainy day in Siena,  I ducked into a little "bar" (Italian for cafe or sandwich shop) and met Marco, the owner of the shop.  We chatted for a bit as I ate my panini and he told me he spent some time in the U.S. visiting his brother. I asked where and I almost choked. His brother lives in Marietta, Georgia! What a small world!

Marco is a character and he teaches me the word for rain (pioggia) and as he makes me a cappuccino, he asks me the word for the milk on the top.  "Foam" I tell him and he lights up like a Christmas tree.  "Foam!" he repeats excitedly.  One of his employees comes in and speaks in rapid Italian, gesturing at the cappuccino machine, pointing to the top of my cup and ends with a triumphant "FOAM!"  She looks unimpressed.

Marco also shares with me a bit of the history of his city.  Siena was originally a Roman colony called Saena Julia, founded by Augustus 2,000 years ago! Saena Julia was booming until 1348 when The Black Death (plague) hit the town and 75% of it's residents were killed.  Can you imagine 75% of all the people you know suddenly dying of the same illness? So then a long period of war, fighting, and occupation by the Spanish (and maybe another country as well...I can't remember) followed until Siena was sold to Cosimo in 1557 as part of Tuscany. In 1861, Tuscany was absorbed into the new kingdom of Italy.

In the next few days, the history that Marco shares with me helps me understand and appreciate this city even more. I understand how passionate the people of Siena are about their culture.  They have a dark and troubled past, but they are very proud of their city, their heritage and their traditions. It's really a very cool place to visit.

IL PALIO

Marco's bar is next to a tiny path that leads down to the Piazza del Campo.  When I leave his shop, I make my way down there and am blown away.

There is a huge piazza and since I'm in Siena in the winter, there are just a few people there.

Now, this vast empty space really blows your mind when you learn about Il Palio, Siena's famous horse race.

Back in the 14th century, Siena formed 17 contrade, or neighborhoods wards. Each contrade has an animal name (Eagle, Dragon, Panther, etc.), it's own flag, a crest and a spirit all its own.  Residents are fiercely loyal to their district for many reasons...but mostly because each year, they compete against each other in Il Palio.

Il Palio is a horse race held twice per year in the Piazza del Campo where I am standing. But during the Palio, 70,000 people are packed into this square!!

Once all 70,000 people are stuffed in, the police seal off all the entrances/exits to the piazza and the horses are paraded in. There is a contrade parade, a ton of fanfare, the crowd goes wild and then the race is held.

Each year, 10 of the 17 contrade compete in the race. 90 seconds, 3 laps around the piazza, first horse across the finish line (with or without a rider) WINS!

The piazza is steeply banked in several places, providing opportunities for crashes into walls, horse collisions and of course, riders falling off their horses. And since the riders are bareback, it's a feat to stay on your horse until the end of the race. Not only does the contrade who wins have bragging rights for the entire year, the rider is treated like a celebrity and mobbed as he crosses the finish line.

It's a fascinating tradition!

I spent my days in Siena exploring the city. It's beautiful and full of gorgeous architecture and tiny steep paths here and there.

Siena has a stunning Duomo built in 1215. I spent several hours exploring the cathedral, the baptistry, and the crypt below.

I was absolutely transfixed by the floor in the cathedral. The entire cathedral has an inlaid marble floor, made by over 40 artisans in a process that took over 200 years.

The result is stunning. For the first time ever, I found myself looking down in a cathedral more than I looked up.

The crypt is equally amazing...a large room that caved in and was rediscovered in the 1990's. Now it's been carefully excavated, the walls reinforced and the frescoes uncovered for all to see.

I stayed in the Hotel Duomo, in a former 15th century monastery. It's set high into the hill and I had a spectacular view of the Duomo from my room. Each morning, I woke to the sound of church bells and had to pinch myself to be sure I wasn't dreaming.

Put Siena on your list of places to see!