Milan, Italy

I didn't even WANT to go to Milan.

I had read Milan was a modern city with fairly little to offer in terms of tourist attractions, save The Last Supper and a Duomo. Oh, and The Scala.  It was like I heard 10 things about Milan, but heard them all separately...10 separate things I was lukewarm about seeing.  It's a center of banking, a commercial hub, home to fashion designers, blah blah blah. It all sounded terrifically boring, to be honest. I've seen plenty of Duomos, thankyouverymuch, I can skip this one.  But I agreed to go anyway, considering our apartment in Vicenza is less than 2 hours away by train. And because my mom, the product of a fairly religious childhood, was looking forward to seeing The Last Supper.

At the Milan train station

My mom is really The Undisputed Queen of Travel. I take it for granted sometimes, but give that woman 2 hours and a laptop and she could do just about anything. So, of course it was her who researched the entire city, made a plan bought the train tickets, and arranged the best part of the weekend -a tour of Milan.

 The tour was in a plush motor coach, with an English speaking guide and included an overview of Milan, it's history, a visit to see The Last Supper, a guided tour of Sforzesco castle, the Teatro alla Scala, the Galleria of shops and the Duomo.

I shouldn't have doubted my mother because you guys, Milan is awesome. It's a large city and it's got an energy that is both soothing and energizing.  It's full of chaotic car traffic that moves along effortlessly in the same lanes as the public trains. (I don't know how accidents don't happen constantly).

But that shared space makes it seem both modern and ancient at the same time.  As I admired the heavy, metal streetcars, an impossible attractive taxi driver told us that Milan sold street cars to San Francisco some years ago.

The architecture is stunning. The history is fascinating. The food is excellent. I loved it. Halfway through the weekend, I turned to my mom and said "I would live here" and she grinned and said "Me too!"



My biggest regret in visiting Milan was not attending an opera at La Scala, the world renowned opera house. Our tour took us through the museum, the gilded lobby and then we stood in one of the plush, red velvet covered opera boxes.  I could just imagine how magical it would be to listen to my first opera here.  Sadly, the (very few) remaining tickets were at least €255 and we thought it was a bit too expensive for lousy seats.  In hindsight, I bet the sounds, the sights, the experience would have been worth every euro cent.

Now, if you ever spend copious amounts of time in Europe you may start to think that after you've seen 20 or so duomos, you've seen enough duomos.  I had that very thought. But, don't be a fool!  Nothing I could write here could prepare you for the Milan Duomo.  The only thing that was even remotely close to it is La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. If you've seen that and marveled at the opulence, the grandiosity of the design, the excess, how around each corner is another opportunity for your jaw to drop to the floor, then maybe, you might be somewhat-sorta-almost prepared for the Duomo in Milan.  But still, you are not prepared.

This cathedral took 6 centuries to build...that's right... it took more than 600 years!  I am a bit of an architecture buff and always find myself wandering around structures and cities, taking in the feel of the buildings. The duomo was like someone shaking you as hard as possible and then hugging you. It's so grand, so impressive that it's startling. But it's also incredible beautiful, spiritual, heavenly and calming at the same time.

We paid a bit extra to take an elevator to the top and walk around outside, admiring the spires up close.  I'm no huge fan of heights (neither is my mom) but it was worth every moment in that ear-popping elevator. The views of Milan are astounding, the close up view of the architecture was a dream.  And I took a photo of my parents that I immediately fell in love with.

And of course, Milan is also full of exceptional shopping opportunities. There is a glorious galleria just between the duomo and the Scala.  I wandered in and out of boutiques there and in the shopping district, dazzled by Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Fendi, Versace and more. It's certainly a city where you could put the hurt on your credit card!

So, dear readers, I encourage you to add Milan to your travel list if it's not there already.

For those of you who are using this blog as help for your future travel plans (or just love hotel photos, like me!) we stayed at the Hotel de la Ville, which was modern, updated and gorgeous.

The location was perfect as a home base for exploring the city and the decor was gorgeous and modern.

  I fell in love with this navy upholstered King Louis chair. I need to ask my friend Stephanie (from Glitter and Goat Cheese ) for advice on how to recreate this entire area - awesome lacquered white table, gorgeous navy King Louis chair and a tall, graphic lucite lamp.

I'm not normally a big fan of wallpaper, but I fell in love with this bold graphic print in soft metallic. I might just have to play with wallpaper in my next house.

And finally, the hotel had a great bathroom as well, which is super important to me.  I'll fall in love with any bathroom that has marble everything, floor to ceiling!

Thanks, Milan, for being my first wonderful surprise on this trip.

Caio!

Back troubles and a week off

Dear readers, I've got news for you.  A bad back doesn’t care that you’re on vacation.  It doesn’t wait for you to find a convenient time to be laid up (because when is a convenient time, really?).  No, in fact, a bad back strikes when you least want it to.  The last time was just 3 weeks before the triathlon I’d been training for.

And this time…naturally, I’m in Siena, Italy.  I didn’t lift anything heavy or over exert myself or do something foolish.  Nope. Not me.  Not on vacation.  What did I do? I slept on a crappy bed in a 12^th century monastery turned hotel. And, thankyoukindly, woke up in terrible pain.

I took a muscle relaxer and an anti-inflammatory and made it to the train station where I bought the Italian equivalent of a Therma-care instant heating pad.  I took a painful train ride back to my apartment in Vicenza. I was met at the door by my worried mother.  I don’t think I’ve ever been happier to see her.

Side note, I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to get my prescription refilled for muscle relaxers. I simply went to the farmacia (the local pharmacy), showed them my prescription for Baclofen, explained that I was running out and they told me it would cost 15€.  No doctor appointment. No insurance. No prescription or cards or anything. I needed something and I got it.  It was really liberating. 

I "wasted" almost 5 entire days laying in bed with ice, muscle relaxers and anti-inflammatories.  My parents were very sweet, getting me ice packs, helping me, brining me dinner and just taking care of me.  It reminded me of why I’m moving home to Michigan once I return to the U.S.  Not to have people dote on me (although, yes, please!) but because family is important.  Because you never know when you'll need help. Because you never know when people will need your help. And even though I'm very independent, it just takes one backache to remind me I need people.  And even though in my mid-30s, no one can make me feel better like my mom can.

Now... after spending Monday-Thursday in bed, I was ready to hit the road again. 

We decided that Friday, we'll head to Milan...!

Siena and Il Palio

Jan 29-31

I'm in Siena, Italy!! Siena is a gorgeous town in Tuscany (43 miles south of Florence) and is built into 3 steep hills with the Duomo, or Cathedral, built at the very top overlooking the city.

It's a medieval walled city and cars are forbidden, though taxis, residents cars and delivery vehicles are allowed, so you see plenty of cars whipping around the impossibly narrow, steep streets.  I've traveled my fair share in Europe and I believe Siena's streets are the most steep and narrow that I've ever seen.

I spent a few days exploring this great city: the impressive gothic Cathedral, the Baptistry, the Crypt, the Museo dell'Opera and a tradition unlike any other...Il Palio.

On my first rainy day in Siena,  I ducked into a little "bar" (Italian for cafe or sandwich shop) and met Marco, the owner of the shop.  We chatted for a bit as I ate my panini and he told me he spent some time in the U.S. visiting his brother. I asked where and I almost choked. His brother lives in Marietta, Georgia! What a small world!

Marco is a character and he teaches me the word for rain (pioggia) and as he makes me a cappuccino, he asks me the word for the milk on the top.  "Foam" I tell him and he lights up like a Christmas tree.  "Foam!" he repeats excitedly.  One of his employees comes in and speaks in rapid Italian, gesturing at the cappuccino machine, pointing to the top of my cup and ends with a triumphant "FOAM!"  She looks unimpressed.

Marco also shares with me a bit of the history of his city.  Siena was originally a Roman colony called Saena Julia, founded by Augustus 2,000 years ago! Saena Julia was booming until 1348 when The Black Death (plague) hit the town and 75% of it's residents were killed.  Can you imagine 75% of all the people you know suddenly dying of the same illness? So then a long period of war, fighting, and occupation by the Spanish (and maybe another country as well...I can't remember) followed until Siena was sold to Cosimo in 1557 as part of Tuscany. In 1861, Tuscany was absorbed into the new kingdom of Italy.

In the next few days, the history that Marco shares with me helps me understand and appreciate this city even more. I understand how passionate the people of Siena are about their culture.  They have a dark and troubled past, but they are very proud of their city, their heritage and their traditions. It's really a very cool place to visit.

IL PALIO

Marco's bar is next to a tiny path that leads down to the Piazza del Campo.  When I leave his shop, I make my way down there and am blown away.

There is a huge piazza and since I'm in Siena in the winter, there are just a few people there.

Now, this vast empty space really blows your mind when you learn about Il Palio, Siena's famous horse race.

Back in the 14th century, Siena formed 17 contrade, or neighborhoods wards. Each contrade has an animal name (Eagle, Dragon, Panther, etc.), it's own flag, a crest and a spirit all its own.  Residents are fiercely loyal to their district for many reasons...but mostly because each year, they compete against each other in Il Palio.

Il Palio is a horse race held twice per year in the Piazza del Campo where I am standing. But during the Palio, 70,000 people are packed into this square!!

Once all 70,000 people are stuffed in, the police seal off all the entrances/exits to the piazza and the horses are paraded in. There is a contrade parade, a ton of fanfare, the crowd goes wild and then the race is held.

Each year, 10 of the 17 contrade compete in the race. 90 seconds, 3 laps around the piazza, first horse across the finish line (with or without a rider) WINS!

The piazza is steeply banked in several places, providing opportunities for crashes into walls, horse collisions and of course, riders falling off their horses. And since the riders are bareback, it's a feat to stay on your horse until the end of the race. Not only does the contrade who wins have bragging rights for the entire year, the rider is treated like a celebrity and mobbed as he crosses the finish line.

It's a fascinating tradition!

I spent my days in Siena exploring the city. It's beautiful and full of gorgeous architecture and tiny steep paths here and there.

Siena has a stunning Duomo built in 1215. I spent several hours exploring the cathedral, the baptistry, and the crypt below.

I was absolutely transfixed by the floor in the cathedral. The entire cathedral has an inlaid marble floor, made by over 40 artisans in a process that took over 200 years.

The result is stunning. For the first time ever, I found myself looking down in a cathedral more than I looked up.

The crypt is equally amazing...a large room that caved in and was rediscovered in the 1990's. Now it's been carefully excavated, the walls reinforced and the frescoes uncovered for all to see.

I stayed in the Hotel Duomo, in a former 15th century monastery. It's set high into the hill and I had a spectacular view of the Duomo from my room. Each morning, I woke to the sound of church bells and had to pinch myself to be sure I wasn't dreaming.

Put Siena on your list of places to see!

San Luca...and Sara

After eating my way through Bologna, I decided to explore the city and burn some calories. And oh baby, did I ever!

Bologna is beautiful.  The sidewalks throughout the city are covered by beautiful, arched porticos.

In many places, the undersides of the porticos have gorgeous frescoes painted on them. I spent hours walking while staring up at the gorgeous ceilings. I *may* have crashed into a few people, but can you blame me? Look at these ceilings!

The porticos began out of necessity.  The worlds first university, the University of Bologna, was founded here in 1008. As the university population grew, the city needed more space.  Home owners began "bumping" their homes out above the sidewalks, creating the first porticos. Over time, the government created a set of guidelines...they had to be wide enough for several people to walk next to each other and tall enough that a man on his horse could walk through without dismounting.

That's when the portico culture in Bologna took off!

There is no greater example of the beauty and function of the porticos than The Portico of San Luca, a 3.7km (2.3mi) covered stretch of porticos that winds its way up the side of a mountain.
A popular pilgrim route for the devout to visit the Madonna,  I decided to hike the route, enjoy a unique experience and burn off some ragu!

                                 Part of the San Luca path, with the Sanctuary di San Luca at the top center of the photo

The Portico of San Luca is the largest covered portico in the world and contains 666 arches.  The path was built to protect the miraculous icon of the Madonna (photo at end) during the yearly procession to the cathedral in the center of Bologna (where the icon resides during the week of Ascension) up the hill to the The Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca (where it resides the other 51 weeks of the year). They couldn't very well let the Madonna get rained on!

When the church isn't using the San Luca path to transport the Madonna, it's travelled by pilgrims, local Bolognese in need of a good workout and the occasional fearless tourist...like me!

I knew it would be a somewhat strenuous hike and mentally prepared myself for tons of stairs and climbing.  It STILL took me by surprise, you guys.  It starts off relatively flat and easy. I strolled along, admiring the beauty of the archways, the city center, smiling at people as they passed by me.

But after a few kilometers, the path begins to climb up the mountain...and from that point on, the climb never stops.

                                            Where the San Luca path begins to climb up the mountain... 

Some sections are moderate (below), while others are so steep you can barely walk up them. I found myself thinking "Come on! This is way too steep. This should just be stairs!"

                               

And then, I regretted thinking that because suddenly, the steep ascent turns into stairs. And when I say stairs, I mean hundreds and hundreds of stairs. The stairs stretch farther ahead than you can even see. 

I understand why they call San Luca a pilgrimage hike.  Devoutly religious people train their thoughts on God during the tough moments of the hike. I am not a religious person, so my thoughts bounced around, my brain looking for something to distract me from the task at hand.

I thought of my travels, my family and my friends at home. I thought of a friend going through a trying time and made a note to text him when I got back to my hotel. And then I found myself thinking of Sara.

For the last 18 months, my friend Sara was the best workout buddy, boot camp buddy, HIIT workout buddy and triathlon buddy a girl could ask for. We squatted, ran, swam, biked and planked for hours on end. We challenged, supported and pushed each other through workouts. Sara would challenge me to do ridiculous things like 75 consecutive squats. "No way! I can't do 75 squats!" I'd protest. Sara always smiled (or was it smirking?) said the same thing,"Yes, you can."

It was so annoying.  Sara was always right.

I could always do the number of squats she came up with, or the number of crunches, or medicine ball tosses, or curls. I could, in fact, run up the hill by Georgia Tech that I thought was impossible. I could do 75 squats. I could hold plank another 5 seconds. She seemed to know that my body would do whatever I demanded if I'd just get my head right.

So on the cold January day in Bologna, I thought of Sara and the list of titles I'd added to my list in the last year. Triathlete. Runner. Squatter. Boot-camper. Bad ass.  My thighs screamed in protect as I climbed onward. I thought "I don't think I can do this."
I heard Sara's voice saying "Yes, you can."

At one point, I paused to catch my breath and 2 very fit and very glamorous Italian women passed me as they headed down the mountain. They asked if I was okay and informed me that the next section was the most strenuous. They suggested in broken English that perhaps I shouldn't continue?

For a moment, I tried to see myself as they must have seen me.  An out-of-breath, chubby American girl, probably a couch potato,  bent over, sucking wind, red faced. A girl like me has no (apparent) business hiking San Luca!

I was suddenly annoyed. I stood up and flashed them a smile.  I almost suffocated as I forced myself to breathe normally. "No, I'm perfectly fine, thank you," I said and while they exchanged a worried glance between them, I started climbing again.

Sure, my thighs touch. But they are also big, strong and muscular.  I've earned titles recently.  I'm a triathlete! I'm a runner!  I am a bad ass!

As if on cue, the universe responded.  Just outside the portico on the road, an older Italian man easily passed me RUNNING and waved. A few moments later, he was followed by a guy on a bike, who stayed in the saddle on the way up and SMILED at me as he passed.

Show-offs.

I kept going.
After climbing for about 40 minutes, I turned a corner and saw a huge set of stairs. Just as I'd been told, the end of San Luca is obvious. There is a light at the end of the tunnel...literally!  And if you squint (or zoom your camera), you can just barely make out a cross.

If Sara was here, she'd tell me to run these stairs.  And she'd probably smirk at me. That's the thing about our friends. Their voices are with us even when we're half a world away, on the top of a mountain, facing a huge flight of stairs when your thighs feel like Jell-o.

"I cannot possibly run these stairs..." I thought.
And this time it was my voice.  "Yes you can."
So I ran. And I counted.
162 stairs and it was all over. I was at the cross. I almost kissed it.

                                                                              Big smiles at the top of San Luca...

The view from on top of San Luca is spectacular (my photos don't do it justice at all).

And of course, you can visit the exquisite Sanctuary of the Virgin Mary, overlooking the city of Bologna.

Inside is beautiful...

And last, but not least, you have to pay a visit to the Madonna painting that inspired The Portico of San Luca's creation.
                                             

                                 The San Luca Madonna painting, secure beneath it's protective metal covering.

I stood quietly for a few minutes, admiring the painting and catching my breath. Suddenly, it occurred to me that I'd earned a new title.  I glanced around and realized I was all alone. Just me and Mary.

"Hey Mary," I whispered in the quiet sanctuary.  "I'm a pilgrim."

I could have sworn she smiled (smirked) at me.

Bologna: foodie paradise

Jan 27-29

Buongiorno from Bologna, Italy!  I'm in Italy during the off-season, so it's cold, rainy and snowing during my 3 days in Bologna. For the first few days, I decide focus on one of Bologna's most famous exports...FOOD!

There are very few regions in the world more famous for food than the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy...home to the cities of Bologna, Parma and Modena.

Parma is famous for parmigiano cheese and prosciutto crudo di Parma (Parma ham).

Modena is the birthplace of balsamic vinegar and calamari ripieni di calmareti (little squid seasoned, chopped, mixed with rice and stuffed into big squid!)

But, dear readers, I am in the delicious, gorgeous city of Bologna....!  And Bologna is the undisputed king of food.

I spent an afternoon wandering around the area called the Quadrilatero, an area known for it's tiny, medieval streets lined with food shops.

At the produce stands, I'm dazzled by the selection.

 I'm amazed at the massive lemons and huge, grapefruit sized oranges.

There are charming little shops for milk and cheese (latterias) and shops for meat, particularly interesting with ceilings full of hanging, curing meats.

Each shop also has a display of available dried or fresh pasta.

Bologna is famous for creating the delicious stuffed shells known as tortellini, so they're on display everywhere, both in the shops and on signs in front of restaurants.

Bologna also created the larger stuffed cousin to tortellini,  tortelloni.

The Bolognese people also created bolognese, or meat sauce, which the Bolognese people call ragù. Before the people of Bologna created ragù, pasta sauce was just tomato sauce! Thank you, Bologna!

Lasagna was also created here. Delicious, layered cheesy goodness called lasagna! This yummy dish is one of my all-time favorites...!

And finally...the city of Bologna is famous for... bologna! Here, they call it mortadella sausage and it is MUCH yummier than the American version of bologna. It's a mild, slightly sweet meat served primarily at breakfast alongside salami and croissants. (Italians don't eat eggs at breakfast.)  Mortadella sausage is delicious!

So there you have it! These are just a few reasons why Bologna is called the gastronomic paradise of Italy. If you're in Italy, I strongly recommend a visit. Just be sure to wear loose pants!

Caio!